Seahorse Foods and Feeding
By Tamara Weiss
Aquarticles
Seahorses are ambush predators, feeding primarily on crustaceans, mostly shrimp. In their
wild state, most seahorses only eat live food. (Although H. capensis is an exception and known to feed
on dead food in the wild). In our aquariums, Wild Caught specimens often don't recognize
many food items offer that are not from their natural environment. This includes dead
food, which they just don't see as food unless trained to make the switch.
Captive reared seahorse, on the other hand, are almost always willing to accept frozen.
It seems as though being in captivity makes them more willing to try new foods. Even those
captive reared seahorses not previously fed frozen make the switch almost immediately in
most cases.
It is ideal to offer seahorses a variety of foods - in the wild, they would not eat
only one food source, so in captivity they shouldn't be expected to. Varying their diet
allows for a more complete nutritional profile, as well as providing mental stimulation
which they often lack by only feeding one food type.
When feeding, whether live or frozen foods, its best to offer food that originated from
a marine environment. Marine animals are rich in Highly Unsaturated Fatty Acids (HUFAs)
that freshwater organisms lack or have in the wrong concentrations. The HUFAs are produced
by phytoplankton, base of the marine food chain so all marine organisms are dependant on
them in some way. Freshwater animals fed can be fed to marine animals, but they need to be
enriched with different products containing the necessary fatty acids, such as Selco, or
Ocean Rider Vibrance.
The exception to this rule is Brine shrimp, while they are technical marine, coming
from a saline environment, their ecosystem is much different than the ocean, and therefore
do not have the HUFA's of other marine animals.
Live Food
Some believe that live foods are the best foods available for seahorses. It was only a few
years ago that the only foods ever offered to seahorses was live food. The availability of
captive bred seahorses and new techniques for training seahorses has changed that,
although much live food is still offered as occasional treats or for Wild seahorses that
can't be trained on frozen food. While there are many types available to the hobbyist, it
can be difficult to obtain from local fish stores. Culturing live food in quantities large
enough to feed seahorses provide a significant challenge to seahorse keepers. Most
cultures require large amount of space and are labor intensive. Others breed to slow if at
all. For most hobbyists, live food has to be purchased over the internet, or if they're
lucky enough to have this option, collected from local waters.
*IMPORTANT NOTE* Some
wild caught seahorses refuse to be trained on to frozen foods. Others learn, but stop for
no apparent reason. Anyone attempting to keep wild caught seahorses should plan to
dedicate themselves to continuously providing live food should such circumstances arise.
There are cases were no amount of diligence or experience will result in wild seahorses
eating frozen foods. For that reason, if you are not prepared to offer live foods for the
natural life span of your seahorse, which could be up to 7 years, I strongly suggest you
do not consider keeping wild caught seahorses.
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Brine
shrimp, Artemia Sp.
The most common food offered to seahorses and also probably the worst.
Many fish stores recommend feeding this because as a live food, a lot of seahorses will
react to it and eat it. However, there is virtually no nutritional value to them, and
because seahorses have a short digestive tract, they can not even make use of the little
bit nutrients there. Seahorses fed only this will slowly die of starvation, sometimes over
a period of months. There is some value to enriching them, although not enough to be a
staple of the diet. They are often refused as well because they do not behave like
"normal" shrimp which are part of a seahorse's natural diet. Their swimming
habits often confuse seahorses, leaving them often to entirely ignore the brine shrimp. |
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Baby
Brine Shrimp, Artemia sp.
Unlike
Adult Brine shrimp there is SOME nutritional value to newly hatched baby brine shrimp.
They have a nutritious yolk reserve to allow them to hatch out and survive the first
twelve hours until they develop a complete mouth and anus. It is when they first hatch
that they are still at their most nutritious and should be fed. Decapsulating the cyst
before hatching (removing the shells) is recommended so it takes less energy for the brine
nauplii to hatch, and are therefore more nutritious because they've used less of their
food store. Brine shrimp can also be enriched for 24 hours before feeding. Baby brine
shrimp is the normal staple for dwarf seahorses, and is often used to feed seahorse fry. |

Day
old brine shrimp next to a penny.
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Rotifers
Saltwater
rotifers are microscopic organisms feed to seahorse fry that are too small to take brine
shrimp at birth, and for supplementing the diet of adult dwarf seahorse. They are easy to
culture using phytoplankton, yeast, special rotifer food, and even v8! There are a few
different species and strains available in aquaculture, and choosing larger ones is
usually better for seahorse fry. |

Three rotifers next
to a penny for size comparison. That is the "T" from "IN GOD WE
TRUST".
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Copepods
Tiny
crustaceans, most roughly the size of new born brine shrimp. They are the best food for
seahorse fry and dwarfs, but are not easy to culture and depending on their swimming
habits, may not be noticed by some fry. There are three kinds of copepods generally used
for feeding seahorses, harpactacoid, cyclopoid and calanoid. Harpactacoid are the easiest
to culture, but they prefer living on the surface of objects, and thus do not always
attract the attention of seahorses.They can be gathered from aquariums at night when they
are most commonly found on the sides of the aquarium. Culturing just requires a container
with an airline set on low, and crushed flake food. Calanoids swim in the water column
which makes them ideal for seahorse fry and dwarves. However they are not easily cultured.
Most used for seahorse food are caught directly from the ocean. Cyclopoids (cyclops) are
found in refugiums occasionally and fed out. They are predatory, so culturing is probably
not an option. |

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Red
Shrimp, Opa'e ula, Halocaridina rubra
Small
brackish water shrimp endemic to Hawaii. They are an excellent seahorse food and very few
seahorses will refuse them. They are, however, not easy to obtain and must be purchased
through mail order sources. They also have a slow reproduction rate, producing a few young
only a couple times a year, making culturing at home impractical. |

Mysis
relicta photo courtesy of PE Mysis
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Mysis shrimp, Opossum shrimp, Mysis sp., Mysidopsis sp. and similar
Another great seahorse food, readily accepted. Mysis "shrimp" aren't actually
shrimp, but a very shrimp like crustacean. They probably make up a large portion of the
diet of wild seahorses. They reproduce at an alarming rate, producing young every 1 - 2
weeks, and are sexually mature at around 15 days.The young are born alive, and new born
mysis make excellent food for juvenile seahorses that are starting to outgrow bbs. They
however require a lot of time and energy culturing as the young need to be separated from
the adults to prevent cannibalism. They also require feedings of newly hatched artemia
nauplii or similar twice a day.Mysis
can also sometimes be found it reef tanks among live rock and in refugiums. Sometimes you
can convince your LFS to collect them from their live rock tanks, especially if you're in
a panic and ask REALLY nicely. Most LFS's will do it, afraid of upsetting the crazy
seahorse lady again.
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Ghost
shrimp, Grass shrimp, Glass Shrimp, River shrimp
These
are clear shrimp commonly found along the shore lines and in rivers and streams. They make
good seahorse food for large species such as H.
erectus
or H.
reidi.
The freshwater variety is often available through local sources, such as fish stores and
bait shops. Culturing is time consuming, and either requires a large outdoor container
such as a kiddy pool or separation of the young. Freshwater
ghost shrimp should be enriched. |

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Amphipods,
Gammarus, Scuds
Often
described as "little bugs", these segmented crustaceans are usually present in
our tanks, even under aggressive predation. Most seahorses will poke around rocks for a
quick snack when these guys come out. If they can't live in the tank, they will often live
in the filter pads. For the occasional treat, you can easily create a in the tank refugium
which will allow them to hide and breed. Make a small box out of plastic screen or egg
crate, and fill with algae, lightly packed filter floss, or shredded plastic. They can
also be harvested from most bodies of water, fresh and marine. They prefer to hide under
and around algae covered rocks. |

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Isopods
Similar to amphipods, these
relatives of the common pill bug also make good seahorse food. Just watch out for
parasitic Isopods (they will usually have very large eyes). I have found that tanks with
isopods rarely have amphipods and tanks with amphipods rarely have isopods. I do not know
if they out compete each other or if this is just an anomaly I observed in my tanks. |
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Cleaner
Shrimp Larvae
Peppermint,
skunk cleaners, and Fire shrimp (less so) all produce small larval shrimp at regular
intervals when at least two are kept together. Because they are hermaphrodites, there is
no need to sex them, just put a pair in the tank. Most adult seahorses will ignore the
larval shrimp, but juvenile and dwarf seahorses love them. They are usually born at night,
but are positively phototrophic so can be collected by setting up a light in/near a
container to trap them. Raising them is difficult, but having enough broodstock around can
leave you with an endless supply of shrimp larvae. |
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Daphnia
A freshwater relative of
copepods, sometimes offered to juvenile seahorses and there are reports of some finicky
adult seahorses taking them. Usually these are narrow snouted species such as
H. comes or H.
barbouri. |
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Livebearer
Fry
Mollys,
guppys, etc . . . Some seahorses will eat livebearer fry, while others ignore them
completely. They are easy to have around though, so many keepers have them "just in
case" |
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Larval
Food Shrimp
These
are the young of food shrimp that people eat. They can be obtained in a variety of sizes
depending on their stage of development. Because of their use for human consumption,
they're also pathogen free. Most food shrimp dealers will not accommodate small orders
that seahorse keepers would be looking to make. Noni (George) however, has been a god
send, more than willing to help seahorses. |
Frozen Foods
Most captive bred seahorses readily accept the appropriate frozen foods. Some wild caught
seahorses can be trained as well to eat frozen. Below are some of the frozen foods that
can be fed to seahorses.

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Mysis
Shrimp
The staple of captive bred seahorses. As most brands are freshwater mysis, they will need
to be enriched occasionally.
Brands: SFB, Hikari, PE M.Y.S.Y.S, Gamma, Lifeline, MBF, Mike Reed, Henkel |

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Plankton
Usually
Krill harvested at a small size. Roughly the same size as mysis shrimp, but may have a
harder shell as seahorses seem to struggle with them a little more
Brands: Hikari, SFB, Fish King |

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Krill
Good for large seahorse, such as adult H. erectus, H. reidi, and H. ingens.
Brands: SFB seems to be the only suitably sized krill commercially available |

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Ghost
Shrimp, Grass Shrimp, River Shrimp, Prawns
Another freshwater animal that would need to be enriched if it was part of the seahorses
diet. Good for large species of seahorses.
Brands: Fish King (Grass Shrimp), ProSalt (Prawns), Mike Reed |

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Copepods
A copepod species. Sometimes accepted by seahorse fry.
Brands: Cyclop-eeze by Argent Labs, MBF |
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Daphnia
I have no experience with feeding frozen daphnia, but I would assume its a good
transitional food for fry if they accept it. As its a freshwater food, it would need to be
enriched.
Brands: Hikari, MBF, Mike Reed, gamma |
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Gammarus
I have never had the chance to offer frozen gammarus, but I suspect they would be taken
willingly. Enrich if the source is freshwater gammarus.
Brands: Fish King, MBF, Henkel |

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Enriched
Brine Shrimp
While its not a particularly good food source, some seahorses are too small to eat
anything other than brine shrimp. A few companies like Hikari and San Francisco Bay put
out enriched brine shrimp. I would recommend ONLY feeding frozen brine as a last resort,
and only the enriched kind.
Brands: SFB, Hikari |
Some
especially greedy seahorses are known to take pretty much any frozen food they can eat, so
don't rule out trying foods such as squid or silversides. Be sure to cut the foods in to
strips which are more the seahorse's size.
Enriching
Enriching foods is done to complete the nutritional foods offer to seahorses. In many
cases, the foods offered, while good, lack certain components or do not have the right
proportions of the correct components. For example, PE mysis is a great food source.
However, the HUFA EPA (Eicosapentaenoic acid ) to DHA (Dososahexaenoic acid) ratio is too
high. Too much EPA interferes with the bodies use of other necessary fatty acids, while
high DHA to EPA increases the growth rate in fish. And many freshwater food sources do not
contain any fatty acids, which is why enriching is so important.
The
number of enriching products ranges in the thousands, and are specific to what your
intended results are; such as general HUFA increase, DHA increase, enriching for color
enhancement, additional protein, etc . . . as well as the existing profile of the food you
are trying to enrich. Discussing the specific products and uses is beyond the scope of
this article. However, some commonly use enrichment products are:
SELCO
-
increasing HUFAs
Spirulina - Protein,
Vitamins, low in HUFAS
Naturose - astaxanthin powder for color enhancement.
Phytoplankton and Phytoplankton pastes - Increasing HUFA, pigmentation
Vibrance - Astaxanthin and HUFAs?
SpectraVital - Rumored to be the same as Vibrance
I encourage each person to tailor their
enrichment needs on the foods that they offer. Researching enrichment products used in
commercial aquaculture is likely to give all the answers to what product is best for you.
How to Enrich:
There are several ways one can enrich foods. I'm only covering the ways that work best for
me, but don't be surprised to find many people suggesting many different ways.
Small Frozen Food.
Take a chunk of mysis and place in a plastic dixie cup. Add enrichment product. Once
thawed, mix up the enrichment product with the mysis and add more if necessary. Leave
overnight. The next day, rinse lightly in a regular net. If you use a net with holes too
small, the excess of some non-liquid products don't rinse away properly. Feed to your
seahorses.
Large
Frozen Foods .
WARNING, PROCEED AT YOUR OWN RISK! SHARP POINTING THINGS AHEAD! I prefer this way of
feeding because then I know the products are getting in the food. I use it primarily for
frozen ghost shrimp. Get a small gauge need from a vet or farm supply store. Liquefy any
dry enrichment product by adding RO water and mixing in a blender. Inject the enrichment
product into the food. If its a shrimp, I will usually insert the needle parallel to the
body as far as I can, then inject while I am removing the needle, in hopes of producing a
pocket where the enrichment goes, kind of like a twinkie.
Bio-Encapsulation
AKA Gut Loading
Here is where you feed the intended food the enrichment product your trying to get to the
seahorse. Most only take 15 minutes to an hour to feed. For larger shrimp such as ghost
shrimp, liquid products won't work as well; feed powders and pellets. Brine shrimp can be
offered liquids and powders if the powders stay in suspension. Adult brine shrimp only
take a short while to enrich, but baby brine shrimp require an additional 12 - 24 hours
from the time they hatch to be enriched. When enriching newly hatched brine shrimp, never
use the hatch water; always switch to freshly made water. |

Brine Shrimp being gut loaded with selco and algae paste.
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