AQUARTICLES•COM

Home

Main Index of Articles

Main Management Index

Search


Please read the 'Agreement' section on the View Articles page before downloading this article.


 

ARTICLE INFORMATION:
Author: Dr. Adrian Lawler  
Title:  Feeding Fish
Summary: Written for the guidance of staff at a public aquarium, these notes on how to feed fish also apply to aquariums at home.

Contact for editing purposes:
email: Adrian Lawler <alawler@hotmail.com>

Date first published: July 2007
Publication:
Reprinted from Aquarticles:
ARTICLE USE: 
Internet publication (club or non-profit web site):

1. Credit author, original publication, and Aquarticles.
2.  Link to http://www.aquarticles.com  and original website if applicable.
3.  Advise Aquarticles
Printed publication:
Mail one printed copy to each of:

Dr. Adrian Lawler,
P.O. Box 48,
Ocean Springs.
MS 39566
U.S.A.

Aquarticles.com
#373 - 5525 West Boulevard
Vancouver, British Columbia
V6M 3W6
Canada


Feeding Fish
by Adrian Lawler, Ph.D.
(retired) Aquarium Supervisor (l984-l998) J. L. Scott Aquarium Biloxi, Ms 39530

Extracted from the staff Operational Handbook which Dr. Lawler wrote as Aquarium Supervisor for the J.L. Scott Aquarium, of Biloxi, MS

Original to Aquarticles


Food

Natural foods:

Fish, squid, shrimp, crabs, oysters, crayfish, live guppies, misc. live FW fish, misc. live SW fish, brine shrimp, mealworms, earthworms, misc. FW plants, and other natural food items. - Artificial foods: Purina trout chow #4 pellets, floating/sinking catfish pellets, flake food, turtle pellets, invertebrate food.

Natural foods should be frozen for several days prior to use to kill parasites that could potentially harm our display fishes; exceptions can be FW organisms fed to SW organisms, and SW organisms fed to FW organisms.

Feeding Notes

All foods should be presented in sizes that can be easily ingested by the animals fed:
---Flake food should be ground up for small fishes.
---Cut up food must not be too large (or uneaten food can foul out a tank).
---Artificial foods should not be so small that larger animals won't eat it (feed large pellets to large
     fish/small pellets to small fish).

Food should not be introduced so that it sinks into rock piles or other aquascaping and thus becomes unavailable to fish (can lead to the fouling of a tank).

Never over-feed a tank - it can foul a tank out by causing:
---excess (not eaten) food in a tank,
---fish to ingest too much and then to throw up food (which can then foul out a tank).

Do not feed a tank with an ammonia problem and thus make the problem worse.

Check tanks fed cut food (or gel food) to make sure all is eaten (if not, remove).

Fake rocks need to be turned over if you get an ammonia reading because fish/crabs drag food items under them. Uneaten food must be removed.

Do not feed cut food to any tank just prior to leaving for the day (leaves no time to check for uneaten food).

It is always better to under-feed a tank than to over-feed; observe feeding of all fish to ascertain approximate amount to feed.

Thoroughly wash cut food so that dissolved and particulate organics are not added to tanks.

Carry cut food with a leak-proof tray underneath so juices do not soil floors, grating, tank rims, and other parts of the building or tanks.

Fill up dry food cans as they become low.

Do not feed items that animals will not eat.

Avoid accidental introduction of food to water reservoirs -- resulting fungal growth on food can lead to introduction of fungal spores to tanks during water changes.

Major feeding should be done in the afternoon so person feeding is available for tank/filter/repair in the morning.

Make sure air is back on after feeding a tank.


Copyright 2007 by Dr. Adrian Lawler, Author Copyright 2007 by Aquarticles, Internet Sponsor

Author Information must remain with article.