AQUARTICLES•COM

Home

Main Index of Articles

Main Management Index

Search


Please read the 'Agreement' section on the View Articles page before downloading this article.


 

ARTICLE INFORMATION:
Author: Jack Heller
Title:  White Worms - A Great Supplemental Live Food

Summary:  How to culture white worms: the container, the raising medium, the food, and the temperature.
Contact for editing purposes:
email: Editor Pat Tosie: pattosie@juno.com

Date first published:
Publication: The Darter, Missouri Aquarium Society www.missouriaquariumsociety.org/main.htm
Reprinted from Aquarticles:
October 2004: The Tank, NE Philadelphia Aquarium  Soc.
ARTICLE USE: 
Internet publication (club or non-profit web site):

   1. Credit author, original publication, and Aquarticles.
   2.  Link to http://www.aquarticles.com  and original
        website if applicable.
   3.  Advise Aquarticles
Printed publication:
Mail two printed copies to:

Pat Tosie,
1813 Locks Mill Drive,
Fenton.
MO 63026
U.S.A.
And one copy to:
Aquarticles.com
#205 - 5525 West Boulevard
Vancouver, British Columbia
V6M 3W6
Canada

White Worms — A Great Supplemental Live Food

by Jack Heller
First published in The Darter, Missouri Aquarium Society
Aquarticles

White worms (Enchytrae) are a small annelid worm that is moderately easy to raise, and is usually taken by most carnivorous aquarium fish with great enthusiasm. These little worms can be raised in a number of different mediums using several different foods, but there are a few general requirements that must be met if the worms are to be raised and harvested successfully. I'd like to share my method of raising and harvesting these worms and hopefully will raise the interest in some of the readers to give this food a try.

The primary considerations are the container, the raising medium, the food and the maintenance temperature.

Let me mention the temperature first since this is very important to the successful raising of white worms:

I have experienced the greatest success raising these worms at a temperature of no more than sixty degrees F. I keep the raising container in a small refrigerator turned up to the highest level possible without turning it off. This setting usually produces a temperature of around sixty degrees. Another trick hat I learned from Ralph Wilhelm and from Charles Harrison is to keep the worm containers in a covered styro box with a cut off soda bottle filled with ice. Each day, the bottle, with melted ice, is returned to the freezer and a new bottle is taken from the freezer and placed between the containers in the styro. This achieves the same cool temperature as refrigeration.

For a medium, I use African Violet Potting Soil and a boiled peat moss in equal amounts and keep this medium moderately moist. This I place in a wooden box that measures twelve inches by ten inches. I add the worms, and on top of the peat moss I lay a piece of bread which I have soaked in a yeast/water mixture, after having first removed the crust. On top of the yeast soaked bread, I lay a piece of plate glass and then place the container in the refrigerator.

When a culture is first established, it needs to be checked every few days to make sure that the bread is not souring. As the bread disappears, it is replaced by a new slice of bread. This culture requires patience, since it takes about four weeks for it to develop to the point where it can be harvested. Generally when a full slice of bread disappears entirely in two days, the worms are ready to be harvested.

Harvesting the worms is accomplished by washing off the glass plate into a clean container of water. The worms are then fed with a baster. Be careful to feed this food no more than twice a week since it is a very fatty worm, and causes fatty buildup on the fish. My killifish love this live food, and would eat it constantly if given the chance.

A culture of white worms, if kept at the correct temperature, maintained in clean medium, and fed well without being overfed (be careful to remove uneaten bread when it starts to go bad) should continue to produce for six months before the medium starts to go bad, and the worms have to be re-potted in a new container with new medium.