The Amazon Biotope Aquarium
by Andy Gordon of England, and Michelle Stuart of
Ontario Canada
Reprinted, with permission, from their web site Fishtanksandponds.net
Aquarticles

Cardinal tetras
Photo by Andy Gordon
Introduction
A biotope aquarium simply means one that only uses flora and fauna from a single region.
These aquaria tend to look very natural and are worth the effort.
The water in the Amazon is soft and acidic and usually highly coloured because of all
the humic acid. Much of the light is cut off by overhanging trees, but where the light
does penetrate through there is a rich density of aquatic plants. Those are the wild
conditions, but the fish that come from there have also become domesticated over many
generations, and because of this they are more accustomed to living in harder and less
acidic water than their wild relatives. Quite a high proportion of all the common
community fish originally come from this vast region.
Care
Basic care is exactly the same as any other community aquaria in most regards. Allow the
bogwood to colour the water slightly - this will give the tank a far more authentic look
and will also alter the light spectrum to one that suits the higher plants more than
algae.
A careful eye must be kept on the pH, since bogwood has a tendency to cause the pH to
drop to dangerous levels. It may be necessary to add something to buffer the water from
time to time (Kent pH Stable is ideal). Regular partial water changes of about 20% weekly
should be carried out, and the new water should have some trace elements added to it.
You will need
The tank can be of any size but big is best. Because of using a large amount of real
plants, two lighting tubes should be used with reflectors. A power-filter will create good
localised water movement. Several large pieces of bogwood are used for the main hard
landscaping. Set up the tank with all the equipment and then arrange the bogwood - try to
aim for a tangled effect as though the wood had collected there after drifting down
stream. Once you are happy with the arrangements put the plants in place.
Filtration
External power filter, used mainly for biological and mechanical filtration. No chemical
filtration, as this would remove vital trace elements needed for plant growth. Because of
the large number of plants reduce the normal level of filtration and aim to filter the
tank's volume of water once every 4 hours.
Lighting
Use two or three tubes with spectrums for plant growth. The tubes must be the entire
length of the aquarium and they must have properly made reflectors. This seems like a lot
of light but without it the plants will fail regardless of what else you do.
Water Conditions
Temp. - 74°F to 78°F.
pH - 6.0 to 7.0
GH - 3 to 7
KH - 2 to 4
Ammonia/Nitrite - no trace
Nitrate - < 10ppm
Feeding
All the fish will thrive on a diet of flake and live or frozen food. The bristle-nose
catfish will also keep any algae at bay.
The herbivores will generally leave the plants alone if they are fed with -
- Lettuce
- Cooked peas without their skin
- Algae pellets/wafers
- Sliced cucumber
Omnivores will require flake food and some live or frozen food two or three times per
week.
All the following plants will do well:
- Echinodorus amazonicus
- Dwarf sword plant (Echinodorus tenellus)
- Hair grass (Eleocharis acicularis)
- Amazon sword (Echinodorus paniculatus)
- Cabomba
- Myriophyllum
Once planted up the plants should be allowed to settle in for at least one week before
the fish are introduced, but longer would be better. There must also be LOTS of plants if
they are to out-compete the ever present algae.
The Fish
There are lots of suitable fish for this tank. Stocking level should be kept reasonably
low for the best and most natural effect - try to keep to just one third of the normal
stocking density.
- Almost all of the small tetras
- Hatchetfish
- Pencilfish
- Larger characins (such as silver dollars)
- Bristle-nose catfish.
- Whiptail catfish
- Angelfish (but not with small tetras)
- Discus (need a high temp. and the plants may not thrive)
- Corydoras catfish
- Dwarf cichlids
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