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ARTICLE INFORMATION
Author:
Don Maloney
Title: Dicrossus filamentosa. My trauma in their care and breeding
Summary: Don's checkerboard cichlids spawned readily, but he had to take drastic measures to raise the young.
Contact for editing purposes:
email: President, Ed Katuska: EDKAT3@aol.com

Date first published:
Publication: Wet Pet Gazette, Norwalk Aquarium Society http://norwalkas.org
Reprinted from Aquarticles:
July/Sept 2005: Superfish, Queensland Cichlid Group (Australia)
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Later that night, I went down into the fish room.
A flashlight in one hand and a turkey baster in the other…
ready to do the dirty deed!

Dicrossus filamentosa

My trauma in their care and breeding

by Don Maloney
from Wet Pet Gazette, Norwalk Aquarium Society
Aquarticles


Dicrossus filamentosa is a dwarf cichlid found only in northern South America. It inhabits small, shallow water courses. There are two known populations of D. filamentosa. One is found in the Orinoco headwaters and the other in the Rio Negro. The only method of distinction that I’m aware of is two fold: the males of the Rio Negro morph have a narrow wedge of speckles in the deep fork of the lyre-tailed caudal fin, and the females develop bright red ventral fins after the first spawn. The other population’s males have a wide speckled area and their females' ventral fins remain clear after the first spawn. Regardless of the population this is a beautiful fish with a striking checkerboard pattern along its flanks. Hence their common name checkerboard cichlid. Please see the cited reference for an accurate physical description of this fish. Every major magazine and reference book has at least one decent picture. In older literature this fish was known as Crenicara filamentosa. Because of the wide availability of photos I will opt to save valuable paper by not describing this stunning fish’s appearance. Please forgive me.

I was able to purchase from a breeder/importer out of Massachusetts on 3/20/97. Researching this fish months before its arrival allowed me to choose carefully the habitat I would use for its home. I recently purchased a 35 gallon breeder and decided to use it - its large bottom area making it ideal for small territorial cichlids and shallow water depth offering excellent light penetration for healthy plant growth and ease of maintenance. It came without a lid. I easily fashioned one out of 1/8th inch plexi-glass. For planting this tank I chose Java fern and Java moss and some of the salvinia sp. floating plants, which were good for a while but began growing out of control. I can’t tell you how many pounds were pulled out at every water change. Open spaces between the bunches of Java fern patches allowed the fish free-swimming room. The broad leaves of the Java fern are absolutely necessary because this fish deposits the eggs on plant leaves. Coconut shell halves and a small piece of bog wood were in the tank along with a shale cave for the Apistogramma nijsseni pair which ultimately spawned in this tank too, at the same time! For substrate I chose fine gravel 1-2" deep for plant roots, but later began to remove some of it because fine gravel holds too much dirt.

Water that has a low pH value and extremely soft is mandatory in the breeding these cichlids. The eggs of this species will easily dissolve in even moderately hard water. I obtain water for these fish two different ways. First, I use rain water collected in a plastic 55 gallon drum, and second, I use tap water. Both rain and tap water are filtered through an A.P. tap water purifier. Then it is trickled through peat to produce a water with a pH of around 5.5-6.0. The water temperature of the new water is slightly cooler (70F to 72F) than that of the aquarium which is kept at 80F to 82F. The addition of slightly cooler water definitely aids in triggering the spawning ritual. Water is changed about 10-15% every 2 weeks.

The fish are fed a variety of foods. This is important as proper conditioning of the fish insures beautiful, healthy fish and frequent spawns. Frozen foods like bloodworm and brine shrimp are fed most often because of their relatively high nutritional value and, most importantly ease of use. I’ll treat them occasionally with live brine shrimp, and mosquito larvae when they are "in season". When I’m pressed for time they’ll get Tetra Cichlid flakes. Yes, they’ll take dry flakes! I’ve heard stories of fish keepers going to extreme lengths to procure all sorts of live and home made prepared foods for these fish. That was not the case for me.

Filtration is handled by 3 box filters with ceramic noodle, peat, and floss. Filters are changed when they appear very dirty. The filters are changed on a rotation basis at water change time.

Lighting is a single 36" plant bulb. The tube is about 12" above water level. The light is on a timer set for 15 hours. Healthy plants, if you’re going to keep them, are important because dead and dying plants don’t help keep the water clean. Change the bulb at least once a year.

The tank mates are 4 Cardinal tetras, 1 pair A. nissjenni, 1 Plecostomus sp. and 2 Otocentrus cats. Note: I eventually removed the tetras after young filamentosa fry vanished spawn after spawn. Note on a note: young fry continued to vanish even after the tetras had been removed! But that’s for later on in the story!

The SPAWNING
The female chooses a leaf on which to spawn. It is usually a perfectly shaped, clean broad leaf not far from the bottom - about 2-5 inches. She meticulously cleans the leaf. At this time the female has been doing a lot of head standing when the male comes by. I guess that is her signal that she is ready to spawn. I never witnessed the blessed event. But in the morning she is hovering directly over the chosen leaf. The egg mass appears to be about 30 to 50 eggs. I however have never been lucky enough to yield that many fry. She has now drastically changed her color pattern and attitude. Her normal checkerboard pattern is   replaced with a solid black lateral stripe and her ventral and anal fins have turned bright red. The male has also lost his checkerboard pattern for the solid black stripe. She is extremely defensive now, and will move into a headstand position if any body even looks at her, and she’ll flare her fins and arch her body. If an intruder gets too close she will dart out at it. After spawning the male receives no better treatment. He’s chased away and the female cares for the young until they’re old enough to fend for themselves. I’ve heard stories of severe brutality resulting in a dead male, but it never came to that with this pair, in my tank. A quick theory as to why: all the breeding articles that I’ve read that reported male beatings resulting in death (apistos, too.) had a common denominator - small tanks averaging 15 gallons or less.

Several times I  patiently allowed the female to rear the young on her own until they reached a size when I could take them out. I figured around 1 cm or more. But that never happened. These fish had spawned numerous times,  and numerous times either the eggs would disappear or the fry would disappear. Only rarely did the fry hatch and hang on the underside of the leaf for several days, only then to disappear like all the other times. I didn’t know what was going on, I thought about predation by the neons so out they came. Sometimes I was fortunate enough to witness the newly hatched fry, clinging to the underside of the leaf by the tiny suction cup on the top of their heads, be gently nibbled off by the female and placed in a small depression in the gravel.

Only to be moved every day to a new spot several more times and then, vanish. I had enough! I had to steal the fry, it was the only way!

Now for the fun part. These fish spawned regularly, They got regular water changes, had a nice place to live, and got well fed. But, the deal was they lived in luxury and I got fry. They were not living up to their part of the agreement. So I had to take action, drastic action! Time to remove the fry. This was not going to be easy because the fry were not regular free swimming fry. I think the correct word is zygote. You know what a zygote is. It’s a microscopic fish that is one quarter tail, one quarter eye and half yolk sac! They were not going to swim into any net! After having watched clutch after clutch disappear, I knew just when the "rescue" had to be executed. I waited until the mother took the fry down from the leaf into the first depression in the gravel. Later that night, I went down into the fish room. Flashlight in one hand and turkey baster in the other, ready to do the dirty deed! Now, I was told that keeping an aquarium was supposed to relieve stress. Nothing but a lie! This was serious business I was very nervous about what I had to do next in order to get Dicrossus filamentosa fry. The automatic timer had shut off the lights just minutes before. But having thoroughly planned and rehearsed what was to happen next, I knew just what to do and where the fry would be. They were back on the leaf - yes, every night the mother would put them back up there. As I began to suck them out with the baster some began to fall off the leaf into the darkness! This was turning into a debacle! My heart was pounding like an air chisel! After what seemed like hours (10 minutes) I was able to get about half the fry. I decided right then to leave some, in hopes that the female would not totally freak out.

The fry were nothing more than specks! A mere 2-3mm long. The following morning they were still alive. The worst was over, or was it? As long as the fry were still with yolk sac they were not going to feed. Several days later they were just barely free swimming and began to feed on Liqui-fry, and once totally free swimming they took newly hatched Artemia larvae. The tank chosen to house the fry was a 2 ½ gallon tank which had been set two weeks prior to moving the fry. This tank had been filled with water from the parent tank. It had a mature sponge filter and Java fern and moss. Once the fry began feeding on the brine shrimp larvae the worst was over. The only worries now were the proper amount of food and water changes.

As far as the adults are concerned, they didn’t really seem too upset over the loss of their young. Within a month they began to spawn again. It is certainly possible to breed these fish on a regular basis if you are good with a baster!

In conclusion Dicrossus filamentosa proved to be a very challenging fish to breed. To date, it’s the most challenging for me. I can say that it was certainly a humbling experience. But I was determined to breed this fish.

References

Horst Linke, Dr. Wolfgang.  Staeck,  American Cichlids I. 1994 Tetra-Press

Salvatore Silvestri – pers. com. 1998