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ARTICLE INFORMATION

Author: Rich Grenfell
Title: The Genus Apistogramma (My Experiences in Care and Breeding)
Summary: Rich finds apistos easy to care for and their breeding behavior entertaining.
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email:  President, Ed Katuska: EDKAT3@aol.com

Date first published:
Publication: Wet Pet Gazette, Norwalk Aquarium Society http://norwalkas.org
Reprinted from Aquarticles:

January 2006: Fins & Friends, Regina Aquarium Society

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The Genus Apistogramma
(My Experiences in Care and Breeding)

by Rich Grenfell

Introduction

Of all the fish I have ever kept, I'd have to say that I have enjoyed apistos the most. I was bitten by the apisto bug back in June of 2000, and haven't looked back since. To date, I have had successful spawns of A. agassizii (Iquitos), A. viejita, A. Cacatuoides, A. hongsloi, A agassizi (Alenquer), A. sp. Rio Mamore, and A. sp. Belem. I am also housing several other species for future breeding.

These little guys come to us from South America. Their range is a bit wider than first thought. Not only are they found in the northwestern, and Amazon regions of the country; but also in the catch basins of the Rio Paraguay, and the Parana. These waterways are clear on the other side of the country! This gives these fish a very wide overall distribution! *

Housing

One of the good things about these fish is that they can be kept in small to medium sized tanks. Some need more room than others, but for my purposes thus far, a 15 or 20 gallon (long) aquarium has done the trick. I have been able to spawn some pairs in 10-gallon tanks, but suggest larger tanks if groups of them are to be housed. Most species of apistos are harem spawners and the females will need enough room to stake out their own breeding territories. My tanks are fitted with a sponge filter and box filter in either corner. I use submergible heaters, as I find them more dependable and easier to work with. Small sized (dark colored) gravel is spread on the bottom, and for shelters small broken flowerpots, and some slate is used to construct caves. Some Java moss covered driftwood, a large Anubias in the center, and some water sprite sprinkled across the top completes the setup. One word of caution when housing these fish - the females of this genus look quite alike. There are differences, but they are very subtle. For this reason, males and females of different species should not be housed together.

Water

My tap water has proven to be perfect for the fish I have kept. The pH usually runs between 6.8 - 7.0 and the general hardness at 4 degrees. Being that most all of the fish I have are tank raised, this water has proven just fine for both maintenance and breeding. I did keep some wild caught fish once, they did fine in my tap water but I had to bring the pH down to get them to spawn. I did so through the use of peat. Ideal temperature is 78 - 80 degrees. Water changes are of course, a must. I do 30% of the tank volume weekly.

Diet

As with any fish, good health means a varied diet. This is the one area of fishkeeping that I spare no expense, and my fish enjoy a wide range of food items. For the most part, I use frozen foods, and paste foods. The frozen items include brine shrimp, blood and/or glass worms, daphnia, and I use a GREAT paste food made by some of the members of my club. I also use some dried food, including freeze-dried krill; a great little pellet type food called Spectrum, and on occasion, flakes. Larger fish will get an occasional treat of live brine, and/or blackworms. I use live food only as a means of bringing fish into breeding condition, or as an occasional treat.

Breeding

Here is where all the fun begins! Nothing has satisfied me more than seeing a mom leading a herd of fry around in one of my tanks! As stated above, caves are necessary, as these fish are cave spawners. Flowerpot caves seem to be the most popular choice of breeding site, though I have had a few spawn in a cave made of slate. I also make my own caves out of terra-cotta clay.

A. Breeding behavior

The fish show signs of an imminent spawning and these should be watched for. They will swim up to each other (parallel) and shake their heads, with the fins erect, and sometimes they will flap their tails at one another. During this time, the male's color will be VERY bright and intense. The female (if she is interested) will take on a bright yellow color as well.

If all is well between the two, a breeding site is chosen, and a spawning occurs. The eggs are laid on the ceiling of the cave, and the female guards them and the cave relentlessly. The male is in charge of guarding the breeding territory. This territory (in my experience) usually measures about 6 inches x 6 inches.

One of the most interesting breeding behaviors I ever witnessed came from a group of A. agassizii (Alenquers). There were three females, and two males. The male spawned with one of the females, and not only did the parents take up the protective behaviors, but also so did ALL three females! I had never seen such a behavior before, so I watched closely. The mom stayed mostly in the cave with the eggs, only coming out to eat. The other two females took up guard just outside the entrance, and had on the breeding colors as well. The male defended the territory, and also became a bit obsessed with chasing the other male around. I had never seen this type of group effort before, and I must say it was certainly interesting to watch! This all ended when the male began to spawn with the other females.

B. Egg and fry development

It takes from two to three days for the eggs to hatch. The fry are now in larval stage, and will have an egg sac as a source of nourishment. This stage of development takes another four or five days. During this time, they are generally kept on the floor of the cave till they are free swimming. I did have one female cacatuoides that kept her fry in pre-dug pits, and moved them from place to place once or twice per day.

Once the fry are free swimming they need to be fed, and I have found that new hatched brine shrimp is the best. I also use microworms, but mainly stick to BBS. I feed my fry three times per day, and usually up the water changes to 50% twice per week. I have found that this helps by removing uneaten food, and the fry seem to grow quicker when I do this. As they grow, the size of the food grows with them, until they are taking paste food and frozen brine.

I have found these fish to be quite hardy when properly cared for. Also, their breeding behavior is quite entertaining! Great little fish to keep and breed. I hope this article will inspire you to do the same!

* Source:
Horst Linke; Dr. Wolfgang Staek. "American Cichlids I - A Handbook for their Identification, Care, and Breeding" Tetra Press 1994